2012 Annual Report for Winestars Blog

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2012 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

4,329 films were submitted to the 2012 Cannes Film Festival. This blog had 14,000 views in 2012. If each view were a film, this blog would power 3 Film Festivals

Click here to see the complete report.

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What Dessert Pairs Best with Sparkling Wine? Korbel & Bianchi’s Provide Some Answers

Erica Mandl of Korbel Champagne Cellars

Erica Mandl of Korbel Champagne Cellars

For the last tasting of the semester at the SSU WineSense Club, we focused on a holiday theme of sparkling wine and dessert.  The beautiful Erica Mandl, head winemaker at Korbel Champagne Cellars, led the tasting by introducing five different Korbel bubblies.  These were matched to delectable desserts from the new bakery in Rohnert Park, Bianchi’s.

How Sweet is Your Sparkling Wine?

Erica cautioned that it was important to understand the level of residual sugar in a sparkling wine, in order to determine the type of dessert with which to pair it.  The official listing of allowed sugar levels from the Comte Champagne website (http://www.champagne.fr/en/diversite_champagne.aspx) is as follows:

  • Brut Natural = less than 3 grams sugar per litre
  • Extra Brut (0-6 grams/litre)
  • Brut (less than 12 grams/litre)
  • Extra Dry (12 -17 grams/litre)
  • Sec (17-32 grams/litre)
  • Demi-Sec (32-50 grams/litre)
  • Sweet (more than 50 grams/litre)

The level of sweetness in a sparkling wine is determined by the dosage, which is added after the wine finishes second fermentation in the bottle.  All Korbel sparkling wines are fermented in the bottle, using the traditional method developed in the Champagne region of France.  Korbel is still allowed to use the term “California Champagne” on its bottles, because it is one of the oldest sparkling wine houses in America, dating from 1882, and has grandfathered regulations to use this term in the US.

Matching Sparkling Wine to Dessert

The less sugar in your sparkling wine, such Korbel’s Natural (.75%, $13.99), indicates it will pair better with a dessert that is slightly less sweet.  If the dessert is too sweet, it will make the wine seem more acidic.  Therefore, Bianchi’s almond cookie was a good match for this Korbel bubbly with its apple and lemon notes.  Fresh fruit and cheese also make a good pairing with a more dry Champagne.

For the Korbel Brut Rose (1.5% sugar, $10;99), which is sweeter than the Natural but still tastes dry with bright cherry and strawberry notes, Erica recommends dark chocolate.  Bianchi’s dark chocolate brownie was a perfect foil for this wine.

The other three Korbel bubblies we tasted that evening were progressively sweeter in style.  They are listed below with descriptions, sugar level, and suggested dessert pairings.

Sparkling Wine

Sugar & Price

Description

Dessert Pairing

Korbel Riesling California Champagne 3.8%(38gpl)$21.99 Semi-sweet with flavors of orange blossom, apricot, and pear. A hint of clover honey at the end. Bianchi’s lemon bars, or other creamy and tart desserts such as custard or flan.  Also consider warm gingerbread
Korbel Moscato Frizzante 4.8%(48gpl)$21.99 Moderately sweet wine with suggestions of tart green apples, kiwi fruit, and lemon citrus flavors. Light chocolate cake with rose petal sauce or caramel and ice-cream, champagne poached pears.
Korbel Sweet Rose 6.0%(60 gpl)

$14.99

Korbel’s sweetess champagne with very bright fruit flavors and aromas, but a cleansing acidity on the finish. Can be used as dessert on its own, or served with white or milk chocolate desserts.

For more information on these special sparkling wines, see Korbel Champagne Cellers at http://store.korbel.com/premium-champagnes-c4.aspx.  For more information on Bianchi’s Bakeshop, please see https://www.facebook.com/bianchisbakeshop

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Average Vineyard Worker Wages in South Africa – Emerging as a BRICS Country

Sept. 2012 – Several times throughout my wine trip to South Africa I asked winemakers the average wage they paid their vineyard workers. The answer was it depends on the region, as well as whether or not the workers have housing and benefits on the property.

In terms of regional pay differences, it appears that Stellenbosch pays the highest wages at 170 Rand ($21) per day for a basic vineyard worker who does not live on the estate. Wineries in Cape Point and the Constantia region said they paid 120 – 150R per day ($15 – $18). In Swartland I was told they pay 100 to 120R ($12 – $15) per day, but also provide food in the form of a large BBQ.

For wineries who provide worker housing and other benefits, the rates also vary by region. In Stellenbosch, we were informed that the monthly rages for a basic vineyard worker are 3000 R per month, or 143 R ($18) per day with housing. However, I had another person tell me that basic farm workers in the outlying areas often receive only 60 R ($8) per day with housing. More experienced workers receive higher wages. For example, one winery told us that a vineyard supervisor living on the estate makes around 8000 R per month ($1000 per month, or $47 per day assuming 21 work days per month).

Considering the official unemployment rate in South Africa is currently 20%, and the unofficial rate is 30%, it is interesting to learn of these wages. They are higher than China, which is only around $8 to $10 per day in the Xinjiang wine region, but much lower than Napa Valley which pays an average of $12 per hour ($96 per day) for vineyard workers and around $16 per hour ($128 per day) for supervisors.

After seeing the townships that surround Capetown with tiny shacks made of corrugated metal and wood fires built in old oil containers in the front yard for cooking, the houses of the vineyard workers appear plusher. They are usually larger and built of brick, clay or wood with green grass instead of dirt and pavement as seen in the townships.

I asked the spouse of one winery owner what was different in the vineyards since Apartheid had ended. She said not much had changed, and that most of the workers had remained to work the farm. The main difference, she noted, was that they were becoming more independent. In the past she had to drive them to doctor, the store and other places, but now they were doing it themselves.

At the same time, keeping children in school seems to be an issue. Several people told me that many farm children drop out of school around the 7th and 8th grade because it is the custom with their friends. The current culture doesn’t encourage being different or sticking out from the crowd. In fact, at one winery when I asked how many of the workers had finished school and gone to university, the answer was “none – yet.”

It is interesting to see where South Africa is since Apartheid ended in 1994. The whole world is cheering for them as they emerge from a time when inter-racial marriages were forbidden, black leaders such as Nelson Mandela were jailed on Robbins Island, and more than 3000 people were forcibly removed from their homes in District 6 of Capetown because of the color of their skin. They watched their houses bulldozed, and were relocated many miles away. It’s hard to believe that these types of actions – which seem so reminiscent of Hitler – actually occurred between 1960 and 1993. Now the new black government is building houses in District 6 and trying to encourage the original owners to return, but there are many who find it too painful to do so.

The Positive Future of South Africa and Its Wine Industry

Yet despite the poverty witnessed in the townships and the high unemployment rate, there is still much to be hopeful for in South Africa. It is an incredibly beautiful country that takes your breath away at times, with views of vistas that often left the word “Eden” whispering through my mind. There are huge rugged mountains that are reminiscent of the granite cliffs of Yosemite. These meet in multiple verdant green valleys where charming towns and cities are built. Then there is the breath-taking coastline with steep twisting roads above the ocean reminding me of Big Sur, and white sandy beaches similar to Hawaii. Further inland lays the desert where the Big 5 roam: elephant, leopard, rhino, lion, and Cape buffalo. And everywhere there is a plethora of birds, flowers, and beautiful protea—the national flower of South Africa – that is part of the fynbos family, native vegetation that only occurs here in the world.

Even more, the people are very friendly, and there seems to be a positive optimism despite the unemployment and the poverty. Tourists are welcomed warmly and there are many affordable tours available. In addition to city tours, safaris and sea dives with sharks, the best way to tap into the soul of South Africa is to listen to live music. We attended an African music night in one of the townships where the singing was so moving that in one moment, people had tears streaming down their faces, and the next they were dancing and shouting in the aisle.

After my  eight-day visit, I can see why experts believe that South Africa should be added to the BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India, China) as a new up and coming economic power. They are now adding an “S” to create BRICS with South Africa as the fifth country. It appears to have a huge potential for economic and cultural success in the future. And the South African wineries, which have been here for more than 300 years, can play a part in that economic engine – especially since wine quality has improved so much over the past several years. Furthermore, with the global recession waning, and global wine supplies dwindling, it seems like a great opportunity for South African wines to develop a unified promotion to expand sales, not only in their own country and continent, but in the USA, China, Japan, and other countries outside of Europe.

NOTE:  This post was originally published on  Wine Travel Stories.  Available at: http://winetravelstories.blogspot.com/2012/11/average-vineyard-worker-wages-in-south.html

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The Source & Extinction of “Burnt Rubber” Taste in South African Wines

Last week I had the opportunity to attend CapeWine and visit five major wine growing regions in South Africa.  During the course of my eight day visit, I realized that the vast majority of the more than 300 South African wines I tasted did not include the telltale “burnt rubber” note that I used to rely upon to identify “South Africa” in a blind MW tasting.  Some people also refer to this taste as “eraser or band aid,” but it is a unique note that has plagued South African wines for many years now – especially in reds and primarily in pinotage.  This has caused many people around the world who have tried pinotage to refuse to try it again.  Yet this time I found pinotages that were so fresh and fruity I could have been tasting a lighter bodied spicy syrah.

Therefore, I asked several South African winemakers to explain how they had resolved the problem, but ended up receiving a variety of responses including denial of the issue.  The most common answer revolved around the topic of viruses in the vineyard, and a few winemakers mentioned a strange form of brettanomyces as traditional (not very clean) winemaking.  One winemaker told me they had been fermenting reds at too high of a level, whereas another told me the issue was fermenting reds at too low of a level.  In the end, the most comprehensive and believable answer came from a Stellenbosch winemaker.

“It was a variety of factors,” he explained, “and as an industry, we have worked very hard over the past few years to eliminate these issues.”  He then proceeded to name four factors:

1)      Viruses in the vineyard — both leafroll and fan leaf virus, which delay ripening.  Therefore many grapes were picked at an unripe “green” level in the past.

2)      Reductive winemaking – wines not protected from oxygen and sometimes temperature control issues, which emphasized green notes and created a “burnt” taste

3)      Brett in the Cellar – given the fact that wine has been made in South Africa for over 300 years, there is brettanomyces in many cellars.  Though considered an interesting note of complexity in some wines, brett added to the above conditions only exacerbated the problem.

4)      Choice of Wood – the choice of barrel, usually older foudres for fermentation, can also emphasize the “burnt rubber” note and/or brett characters.

Solution:  Many South African wineries have replaced virused vines with new vines.   Hundreds of hectares have been replanted in the last few years, and more are still scheduled for replanting.  Cleaner and more anaerobic winemaking practices, new barrels, lower fermentation temperatures, and methods to reduce brett, have also assisted in reducing the problem.  More thinning in the vineyard and crop reduction has also resulted in riper fruit.

Interestingly, I have encountered several people who enjoy the “burnt rubber” taste of old South African wines.  They say they appreciate it as it reminds them of “home and/or South Africa.”  I can understand this, because once you become used to a taste and smell, it becomes part of your “world of meaning.”  The sense of smell – one of the least researched and understood senses—can immediately transport you to another time and place.

It is possible that a few South African wineries will continue to produce this style, and that can be part of their “strategy of differentiation.”  However, in my opinion, South Africa is producing a very unique style of wine that is truly a mix of old and new World.  No one else has achieved this.  They should continue in their efforts to reduce the “burnt rubber” notes, and move forward in producing fresh and exciting wines with a ripe fruit nose, but crisp acids and terroir notes that no other country can replicate.  Careful vineyard cultivation, unique terroir, clean winemaking, and innovative winemakers can make this a reality.  In fact, it is already occurring.

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Balletto and DeLoach Wineries Celebrate the Pinot Noir Harvest with SSU Millennials

Forty-four Millennials showed up to Thursday evening’s SSU Wine Club tasting called “Pinot Party.”  Not only did the students get to taste pinot noir wines from both Balletto and DeLoach wineries, but they were also treated to fresh Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris grapes from the vineyard.

Favorite wines of the evening were the 2011 Balletto Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($29), which has notes of dark cherry cola, violets, earth and rhubard, and the 2009 DeLoach Green Valley Pinot Noir ($45). According to the winemaker notes, this latter wine is very aromatic, with touches of raspberries, black cherries, rhubarb, rose petals and a hint of cola.  It pairs well with salmon and other rich fish.

An interesting variation on the food plates were the inclusion of fresh raspberries, dried plums and red grapes, as well as cheese plate to accent the Pinot Noirs.

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Kenwood and Valley of the Moon Winemakers Entertain SSU Millennials with Varietal Showdown


Another sold out crowd showed up this past week at the SSU Wine Club meeting to listen to veteran winemakers, Patrick Henderson of Kenwood Wine Estates and Greg Winter of Valley of the Moon.  In addition to honoring the “end of summer,” the tasting featured a fascinating “varietal show down” of how two wines made of the same grape varietal can taste completely different based on appellation and/or winemaking techniques.

Valley of the Moon’s Greg Winter started with out with an unoaked chardonnay and then compared it to an oaked wine.  He explained that consumers liked different styles, and so they produced both.  When he asked for a show of hands, about 2/3 of the Millennials preferred the unoaked to 1/3 voting for the oaky chardonnay.

Other “varietal taste offs” included two zinfandels from different AVA’s – one light and jammy, and the other more dark, brooding, and spicy.  The “piece de la resistance” was a taste off of Kenwood’s Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon against the iconic Jack London Vineyard Cab.

Favorite Wines of the Evening

When it came time to vote for the two top favorites, the white wines triumphed with the crowd that evening.  Valley of the Moon’s 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay ($17) with crisp acid and fresh lemon/green apple notes was a favorite, as well as Kenwood’s 2011 Pinot Gris ($16) from Russian River Valley.  It was a semi-sweet white with notes of melon and jasmine.

Once again the SSU Wine Club Executive Board were present, and provided everyone with great appetizer plates filled with salami, cheese, fruit and two types of chocolates.  Another successful tasting at SSU thanks to the excellent wines of Kenwood and Valley of the Moon wineries.

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Benziger Winery Provides “How to Taste” Seminar to SSU Millennials

Kathy Benziger from Benziger Family Winery kicked off the first SSU Wine Club meeting of the semester by hosting a “How to Taste Wine” seminar.  It was a packed house with 50 students, and some disappointed ones who had to be turned away from the door because there were no seats left.

Kathy did an incredible job of telling the story of Benziger with its inspiring organic, biodynamic and sustainably grown wines.  According to Kathy, “Every wine in our portfolio carries a third party certification of green farming practices history.”

Favorite Wines of the Evening

The favorite wines of the evening were the “Signaterra” Shone Farms 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ($25) and the iconic 2008 Tribute ($80).  The sauvignon blanc is a dry crisp white wine with aromas of grapefruit and pineapple.  A great cleanse your palate wine.  Tribute ($80) is 100% biodynamic and is a cabernet blend with notes of boysenberry, cocoa, and spicy herbs.  It has refined tannins with a very long finish.

New club president, Jenna Riggan, worked with the rest of the SSU Wine Club Board to prepare tasting appetizers of cheese, crackers, fruit, and chocolates to pair with the wines.

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